The fashion industry’s obsession with thinness is back, and it’s more insidious than ever. Personally, I think this resurgence is a stark reminder of how cyclical—and regressive—beauty standards can be. What makes this particularly fascinating is how the current trend of ‘looksmaxxing’ mirrors the ‘heroin chic’ era of the ’90s, but with a modern, tech-driven twist. In my opinion, this isn’t just about aesthetics; it’s a reflection of deeper societal anxieties about perfection and control.
One thing that immediately stands out is the alarming decline in size inclusivity on runways. According to recent reports, plus-size models made up a mere 0.3% of appearances at major fashion weeks. If you take a step back and think about it, this isn’t just a numbers game—it’s a cultural statement. What this really suggests is that the industry still clings to a narrow, unattainable ideal of beauty, despite decades of advocacy for diversity. What many people don’t realize is that this exclusion isn’t just symbolic; it has tangible consequences. When two-thirds of women are effectively erased from fashion, it limits their ability to express themselves through clothing, which is, in my view, a form of cultural silencing.
A detail that I find especially interesting is the role of fashion schools in perpetuating this issue. Most design students aren’t taught how to create patterns for larger bodies, which is baffling given that the average woman in the U.S. is a size 16 to 18. This raises a deeper question: How can we expect inclusivity on the runway if the next generation of designers isn’t equipped to design for diverse bodies? From my perspective, this is where the real change needs to begin—in the classrooms, not just the boardrooms.
What’s even more troubling is how technology is exacerbating this problem. AI models and filters are creating an even more distorted version of beauty, one that’s not just unattainable but entirely inhuman. I’ve been thinking a lot about Amy Odell’s question: What happens when we become accustomed to seeing non-human forms as the ideal? It’s a chilling thought, and one that underscores how far we’ve strayed from celebrating real, diverse bodies.
Canada, however, offers a glimmer of hope. Local designers like Lesley Hampton and Hilary MacMillan are leading the charge in size inclusivity, proving that fashion can be both artistic and accessible. What makes this particularly noteworthy is that Canadian fashion weeks have shifted their focus from commerce to culture, allowing for more diverse representation. In my opinion, this is a model the global industry should emulate.
But let’s not kid ourselves—progress is slow, and the setbacks are disheartening. The fact that older women are now in vogue, but only if they’re skinny, is a perfect example of how superficial the industry’s idea of ‘diversity’ can be. It’s like taking one step forward and two steps back.
If you ask me, the real issue here isn’t just about size—it’s about power. The fashion industry wields immense influence over how we perceive beauty, and right now, it’s using that power to reinforce exclusion. But here’s the thing: fashion is meant to be a form of self-expression, not a tool for oppression. Until the industry truly embraces inclusivity, it will continue to fail the people it claims to serve.
In the end, I’m left wondering: How many more cycles of this will we endure before real change takes hold? The conversation is important, but it’s the actions—or lack thereof—that will define our progress.
